Sat 3 Oct:  The border crossing was similar in design to the one of yesterday with passport control and customs offices at either end and a 3-500m walk and driveway in between.  All went well until the Tajik-side passport control, when I was informed that my passport and visa, which I had obtained online in UK, did not tally.  Indeed, there was a discrepancy in the visa – the last two numbers of my passport read 01 instead of 10!  I would have to get an amended visa – ah this could be a problem on Saturday at 1130 – I asked the official if he could call my guide who was waiting.  He kindly did and Mukim duly appeared after a while.  He was an English teacher and an experienced guide who spoke good English.  He got hold of his boss in country and we juggled with patchy internet connection to send a copy of my passport and other details and then hunkered down in the passport control office.  Mukim explained that his boss was well connected and would be able to contact the right people but it would take 3 hours or so and because offices closed at 1230, we may not get a visa today – well, I kicked myself for not having checked properly when I received my visa in UK but, as they say, we are where we are and one was going to have to sit it out.  Mukim was charming and I apologised profusely to him for wasting his time.  We talked extensively about his country, family and things in general.  We got confirmation that my application had been submitted – just a matter of waiting and watching a steady stream of humanity queue up and be admitted to Tajikistan – would I be that lucky today?  Mukim decided that he should go out and get some lunch for us – I was not feeling that hungry, but he insisted.  He was gone for a while; in the meantime, one of the vociferous customs officials shouted to me, ‘Mister, lunch now!’ and ushered me into a pokey back room with a bed and a battered desk, upon which sat a large plate of rice, vegetables and beef.  Well, I was not going to be able to politely duck their really kind hospitality – nothing for it but say how kind and take the chair offered then get stuck in … wondering what Mukim would produce for our lunch!!  Actually, the food was really nice and I waded through half the pile and felt honour had been satisfied sufficiently! (as well as my appetite!).   I retook my place in the waiting room and shortly afterwards Mukim reappeared with a large bag containing soup, and two of those pasty things plus half a round loaf.  Gosh, honour had to be satisfied yet again!  I paddled through the rather tasteless vegetable and lentil soup and managed one of the pasties – then waddled back to the waiting room, feeling a bit like Mr Creosote! However, you could not fault their kindness and generosity; the customs officials were all very friendly and not officious in the slightest.  It was 1515 and no further news; Mukim said that we should give it until 1700 and then have a contingency plan for me to get back to Kokand.  It seemed sensible that I should return to the Silk Road Hotel, vacancies permitting (which at this time of year was highly likely).  Visas would not be forthcoming until offices opened on Monday morning, so I would have a day relaxing in Kokand – Mukim would accompany me back to Uzbekistan side to fix a taxi for journeys to and from Kokand… that seemed like a plan.  And as the minutes dragged on by, it seemed more and more likely to be the outcome of the day.  Depressing thought in one way, but you can’t change what you can’t change – it was my fault anyway; so, make the best of a bad job.  At 1630 Mukim got a text and asked me what ‘assessed’ meant – I explained and it seemed possible that my application had been assessed.  He went to the official who had given me lunch and who had been checking on his network as to whether my application had been approved – well, it had and finally I was photographed and passport stamped – I was welcomed to Tajikistan!  Not exactly the planned day but what a relief; we headed for the car and I met Feisili, our driver of a very smart Prado.  With relief we loaded up and headed west towards our destination, Khojand.  Mukim talked of going to the bazaar and museum once we arrived, which was likely to be no sooner than 1830.  I politely declined explaining that I had wasted enough of his time today and it was more important to me to get to my hotel and then find an ATM to pay for my additional visa.  We arrived at my hotel (Anis) which was very smart and quite blingy but did not serve alcohol, what a blow!  However, there was a large supermarket next door which had a collection of ATMs so I got the necessary cash and paid Mukim.  He was keen that we should go for dinner somewhere, again I declined – I couldn’t face another large pile of rice/pasta/whatever, so we parted company.  He had been a real brick.  I sorted myself out in my comfortable room then went back to the supermarket and picked up some ready-made salad stuff and a couple Russian beers, as well as some more cash.  That was me for the evening in my room … recording the unexpected events of yet another day in Central Asia … and finally, getting in to Tajikistan.  It had certainly underlined the value of booking everything through the likes of Wild Frontiers – I would have been totally snookered if I had been travelling entirely on my own. No photos of the days events!